
Elevate Your Homesteading with Soil Blocks This Spring
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This spring, take your gardening and homesteading skills to the next level by mastering the art of soil blocks! Once you get the hang of this method, you'll find it to be the easiest and most cost-effective way to start your seeds. Say goodbye to plastic trays, and let me guide you on how to make the switch!
WHAT IS A SOIL BLOCK?
Soil blocks are compact cubes made from seed-starting soil that serve as both a container and a growing medium for your transplants. The unique design creates air gaps between the blocks, preventing roots from intertwining with neighboring blocks. When the roots encounter this air gap, they pause their growth until they are transplanted. This allows seedlings to adapt quickly to their new environment, reducing transplant shock—a common issue with seedlings that have been grown in pots where roots circle the interior. Surprisingly, soil blocks are quite sturdy, thanks to their fibrous composition of peat moss, which holds them together. Once the seedlings' root structures develop, the blocks can handle some rough handling without crumbling.
I also utilize a mini blocker, which creates 3/4″ x 3/4″ blocks, perfect for germinating small seeds like celery, parsley, peppers, tomatoes, and lettuce.
Small – 3/4″ Soil Block Maker
2″ Soil Block Maker
Examples of Plants for 2″ x 2″ Soil Blocks:
- Beans
- Beets
- Cabbage
- Peas
- Tomatoes
- Onions
- Peppers
- Eggplant
- Melons
Examples of Plants for 3/4″ x 3/4″ Soil Blocks:
- Basil
- Celery
- Lettuce
Why Choose Soil Blocks?
- Stronger Roots: Soil blocks promote a healthier root system than traditional container-grown seedlings.
- Quicker Establishment: Seedlings adapt faster after transplanting.
- Less Waste: No need for plastic containers.
- Cost-Effective: The only expense is the soil itself.
BLOCKING SOIL MIX
a blocking mix should have extra fibrous material to ensure the block holds together. The majority of the mix i use is:
- Peat – This is the most important ingredient due its fibrous composition.
- Sand or Perlite
- Compost
I have found the brand promix, which is simply a blend of peat moss and perlite a great base for soil block. I also mix in compost.
Other additions I add to my blocking mix
- Lime – Peat moss can be rather acidic, so lime adjusts the ph of the mix closer to the 6-6.5.
- Garden Tone from Espoma – It is an organic fertilizer that contains slow release nitrogen and greensand which is a broad-spectrum source of micronutrients.
- Worm Casting – Not necessary but will help with water retention and release nutrients.
SOIL BLOCK MIX RECIPE
I use an 11 gallon soil mixing tub I bought from tractor supply and it works great.
- 3 heaping shovel fulls of peat moss
- 1/2 cup of lime
- 2 Shovel fulls of sand or perlite
- 3 cups of fertilizer i recommend garden tone
- 2 heaping shovel fulls of compost
Mix all of these ingredients together in your mixing tub or wheel barrow. Next start moistening your mix. The ratio should be about 1 part water to 3 part soil mix. I like my soil blocks on the wetter side. Shoot for a wet looking concrete. If you accidentally add a little too much water you will have to add a little more peat and compost to absorb the water. Trial and error will come into play here. It takes some practice to get right.
WATERING
Soil blocks should never be left to dry out completely. If the block gets too dry it is hard to get the block to absorb water again, so its best practice to keep the blocks moist. I use a fine mist sprayer instead of a watering can to water my soil blocks. A pump sprayer or trigger spray bottleworks great.
TRAYS
Although you can ditch your plastic pots you do still need some kind of tray for your soil blocks. I have been using scrap pieces of plywood to create my trays. These have lasted multiple seasons now and i always make a few more each spring. This is a great kit that includes the soil blocker and plastic trays.
MAKING THE SOIL BLOCKS
To ensure your soil blocks hold together, your mix should include additional fibrous materials. Here’s the primary composition I recommend:
- Peat Moss: The key ingredient due to its fibrous nature.
- Sand or Perlite: For improved drainage.
- Compost: To enrich the mix.
As you press down on the soil block maker, you should see some moisture seeping out. If your blocks aren’t holding together properly, it might mean you need to adjust the moisture or add more soil to achieve the right consistency.
SEEDING
When it comes to planting seeds, a good rule of thumb is to bury them at a depth that’s twice their diameter. For instance, if you have a seed that measures 1/2″ across, plant it about 1″ deep. My soil blockers come equipped with a dimple that’s perfect for placing your seeds. After positioning the seed in the dimple, cover it with additional soil mix. The amount of cover will depend on the type and size of the seed. For tiny seeds like lettuce, I leave them uncovered, while larger seeds, like peas, require a deeper dimple for optimal planting. And don’t forget to label your seedlings! I simply attach labeled tape to the side of my trays for easy identification.
GROWING IN SOIL BLOCKS
Once your seeds are planted, caring for them is similar to growing seedlings in pots. I recommend placing your blocks in a sunny window, and to prevent the seedlings from becoming leggy, consider adding supplemental lighting. For an extra boost, placing your blocks on a heating pad can encourage quicker germination.
TRANSPLANTING
When your seedlings have sprouted, developed true leaves, and roots are visible at the edges of the soil blocks, it’s time to think about transplanting. Before you proceed, check that your area is past the last frost date, especially for frost-sensitive plants. You can easily find your local frost dates online. I also recommend hardening off your seedlings by gradually introducing them to the outdoors over a day or two. Once they’re acclimated, your seedlings are ready for transplanting into the garden, raised beds, or pots. Treat them as you would any other seedlings, and you’ll be amazed at how quickly they thrive!